17000 Islands-Indonesia

Saturday, March 23, 2013

17000 Islands-Indonesia


Photos of Indonesia-2013


Each of the 3 photos below is the cover of a photo album. You double click on the link below the photo and it takes you to that album. If you are also interested in reading about the trip, it begins after the photos with 17000 Islands - Indonesia.

#1 Album

#3 Album












17000 Islands - Indonesia

Intro

I’m still counting islands after a thirty-hour flight and our return to Buenos Aires. Sara and I were only able to visit 4 of the 17000 possibilities. This being my second trip to Indonesia our focus would be on more remote destinations, absent of tourists. The number visited wouldn’t be important.  And did we get lucky.


Bali

 We landed in Bali, teeming with Aussies, and acclimated ourselves to the 11 hour time difference.  We hung out in Kuta with its surfing beaches, massage parlors, and hundreds of small independent storefronts selling the best of Bali. Noted for its Woodcarvers, ceramists, and weavers, Kuta was Bali’s shopping mall. It didn’t take us long to tire of the commercialism and we soon headed to Ubud, the cultural center of Bali. 





Bali is over 90% Hindu and it is particularly evident in Ubud.  There are shrines, temples, and near daily festivals that attest to the pervasiveness of their religious belief in all of daily life.   The Balinese believe in reincarnation and make offerings to honor the deceased. Every home has a personal shrine, as do businesses.  You will see them along the roadside, in the rice fields, and blessing their motorbikes.  Beautiful, ornate offerings that look like small trays of woven bamboo are filled with food and other personal items to acknowledge one’s ancestors, family, and their many gods. 


Shrines are also found in every business to encourage abundance.  Burning incense, a very powerful, sensory stimulant is also used.  It perfumes the air and permeates all, where even the smallest whiff brings you immediately back to present moment and your personal offering.    It is a beautiful, meditative ritual to observe and is repeated daily with religious discipline.
Often the women will be seen carrying towering baskets of fruit on their heads as they proceed to a temple to celebrate some festival. Religious offerings are indeed an important ingredient of Balinese culture and Ubud is culturally rich with such tradition.
Yet Ubud is much more. It lies at a higher elevation and thus the cooler climate is ideal for artistic expression. It’s the perfect place to practice body and mental disciplines from yoga to meditation. Like a magnet writers, painters, textile artists, and craftspeople are drawn to Ubud.


Creativity and peacefulness abound.  In the surrounding countryside you will find hundreds of rice paddies that add to its charm.  With a motorbike you can explore the narrow back roads and discover a part of Bali most visitors never experience.  And you can walk for miles on footpaths that wind through the surrounding hillsides. 
Of course things are changing rapidly. The movie, Eat Pray Love, starring Julia Roberts has put Ubud into the mainstream as a tourist destination.
Thankfully its charm remains as most tourists spend only one or two days there, not nearly enough time to experience all that is Ubud. Yes, in eight years since my last visit, this small village has grown substantially.  Yet I was not disappointed as within blocks of the congested city center, rural solitude and cultural interaction with local Balinese was still possible.
Sulawesi And Bunaken Island

Where do you go if you want to get off the beaten track?  Sulawesi has long beckoned but traversing the island for a week by local bus had lost its appeal and a ferry to the North with a guarantee of rough winter seas for several days was no better option.  Could we fly?  It turns out that Lion Air now offered regular service to Manado City, the gateway to Northern Sulawesi. And the flight was surprisingly cheap!


We did our research and decided that Bunaken Island might offer us everything we were looking for.  It reportedly had fantastic drift diving over reefs and walls full of a stunning variety of colorful coral, huge sponges, sea turtles, and fish species in abundance. We were not disappointed.  The ocean currents there carry an endless supply of nutrients that keep coral and fish happy. 



To swim with literally thousands of foot long fish, interspersed with multicolored parrot and angelfish, was memorable. The surrounding sea boosts a remarkable 70% of all known fish species present in the Indol-Western Pacific.  It was some of the best diving that I’ve done in over 30 years, better than the drift dives off Cozumel, Roatan, and the snorkeling off West Australia and Thailand.  
When I say diving, though I’ve been PADI certified for years, I preferred to free dive absent of tank and cumbersome equipment. I can hold my breath to 40 or 50 ft. snorkeling, more than deep enough to swim with huge turtles, visit large sponges, examine giant clams, and delicate coral and sea plants up close.  This was Nemo’s world and to watch he and his brother clownfish hide amongst the poisonous tentacles of sea anemone was a delight.
The turquoise water was so clear that 100 ft. visibility was common, yet below about 60 ft. the vibrant reef and fish colors begin to fade due to the filtering effect of the water itself.  Freediving I could stay in the water for hours, while tank diving, though deeper, would last one to two hours.  Someone once remarked that it is beautiful to watch me move through the water and go so deep.  Could I please show them how I breathe underwater with the snorkel? Holding back a chuckle I suggested practice and in time you’ll figure out what technique works best for you.
Tank divers generally do see larger fish. Big fish prefer the deeper water, but seeing a six foot shark, several moray eels, Barracuda, and an occasional 150 pound grouper satisfied my curiosity to see more big fish. Color my underwater world to 40 ft. and I’m happy.
 One might compare free diving to traveling overland.  It takes longer to get to your destination, but you experience the world in a different way than if you just fly over it. You stop for a momentary peek and explore what you can on one oxygen-laden breath as curiosity drives you deeper into the undersea world.  I like that.  You get a glimpse of another world without relying on technology. Freediving makes the adventure seem more real, ability-based. Thus the deeper I can go each time with the skillful tuning of my surface entry and utilization of my air. 
First you prepare yourself at the surface for each dive, using breathing techniques that oxygenate your blood.  Then like a duck, you break the surface of the water and propel yourself downward. The practice of meditation is useful as it helps me to remain calm, less agitated and excited, maintaining a slower heart rate which in turn affects your dive time. I seem forever driven by the possibility of observing something unique with each dive. Each dive becomes a work of artful, skillful expression.  You don’t get the whole underwater world at once.  You discover it slowly, savoring it with each deep breath.   I don’t have an underwater camera to document what I saw, so you’ll just have to visit Bunaken Island  yourself.
Something was missing.  Bunaken Island was surrounded by mangroves though beautiful are dangerous to explore barefoot. Thus except at the lowest of tides there was no beach and Sara and I are beach walkers.  Yes, besides snorkeling twice a day, we explored Bunaken, its two villages, attended an outdoor dance and karaoke party, and stayed for over 10 nights.  Yet we longed for a shoreline where we could meander aimlessly for miles, our toes wet, white and happy.  With a little research, we were rewarded with Lombok Island and soon we were leaving Bunaken behind for beautiful beaches and pristine bays.  
Lombok Island
Lombok has a new airport located minutes away from Kuta, The Other Kuta.  Lombok’s Kuta is a place for surfers and hippies with minimal infrastructure and lots of white sandy beaches.  We rented a motorbike and toured miles of coastline in search of the perfect beach.  We found several. Some had sand so fine, it was like white powder.  Others had sand of tiny, white coral balls formed by storms over time.  Walking on sand invigorates the feet, massaging them as you stroll along. 
We were in Beach Heaven. With gorgeous, dark cumulus nimbus clouds piled high as a backdrop and the sun penetrating the clear sky overhead, you found yourself in an otherworldly environment of rich colorful contrast.  The turquoise sea varied in color with the depth from shore.  The water was gentle and warm and you could float in the saltwater swayed back and forth by the changing tide.  In the late afternoon the winds might pick up and you could body surf the breaking waves.  Paradiso!  Of course the day included a handful of new friends, mainly vendors that you’ll soon meet in my photos as well as delicious meals of Barbequed fish smothered in garlic, spicy shrimp, and locally grown fruits and vegies. 




The days rolled by without much ado that the most insignificant of events, like finding an intriguing spiny shell, watching naked boys learn to surf with drift wood, or children netting dragonflies at sunset, would burn a lasting impression.
Thus passed our lazy days in Indonesia.  One travel memory builds on another. We will go back. We have already marked the map with places difficult to get to, rich in local culture and beautiful pristine reefs and beaches.  We can’t talk about them.  They haven’t really been discovered yet.  We won’t be the first but we don’t want to be the last.  Really there is not much more to share that a picture worth a thousand words can tell you.  And I have many which I hope you will enjoy.
This journey was about the sea, solitude, beaches, and local culture.  It was a reminder of how special our planet is and how we need to take better care of it. It was a moment to feel some fear and to be rewarded for our creativity and curiosity in finding something unknown to us, yet full of useful lesson.  We took home with us a new way of seeing the world and some new friendships. We left leaving behind our footprints on white sandy beaches, a little kindness, and an abundance of warm interaction.

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